The classification of truffle varieties depends on their shape, size, colour, perydium, glebum, smell and flavour. In case these features are not enough, it is required to analyze the asci and spores under the microscope (the latter can be reticulate, alveolate or spinulate). Nowadays, it is even possible to classify truffles in all the stages of their growth thanks to biomolecular tests.
In Italy we have about ten truffle varieties. The most sought-after is the Tuber magnatum Pico (Alba or Acqualagna white truffle or rare white truffle) which has always held a record on the tables and even on prices. The Tuber melanosporum Vitt. (Norcia and Spoleto black truffle or rare black truffle) follows, even though it has not been properly appreciated in Italy so far. And then, the Tuber borchii Vitt.(Bianchetto or Marzuolo), the Tuber aestivum Vitt. (Scorzone) with its uncinatum Fischer sub-variety, the Tuber brumale Vitt. (winter truffle) with the moschatum Ferry sub-variety, and the Tuber macrosporum Vitt. (smooth black truffle). Some minor varieties are: Tuber rufum Pico (Reddish Truffle), Tuber mesentericum Vitt.(truffle of Bagnoli), Tuber nitidum Vitt., Tuber ferrugineum Vitt., and finally Tuber excavatum.
Some other varieties of hypogeous fungi commonly picked but neglected by the chefs belong to the genera Terfezia, Delastria, Picoa, Genea, etc.
We should remember, however, that there are no toxic mushrooms growing, but some foul-smelling or odourless mushrooms may cause minor gastro-intestinal problems. Some of these so-called “fake truffles” belong to the genera Balsamia and Choiromyces.
In Italy truffles may be found on the Central Appenines (Umbria and Marche), where Norcia is one of the most popular production centres, as well as in Emilia Romagna, Tuscany, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, Liguria and in Campania.
The winter truffle may be found in the same areas where the “rare black truffle” grows. The Bagnoli truffle, even though it grows in all the truffle-producing areas, is mainly produced in Campania.
The Bianchetto (whitish truffle) is probably the most common truffle, but the biggest production is in the coastal pinewoods.
Some species, i.e. T. brumale, T. mesentericum, T. aestivum and T. borchii, are collected in small quantities even in Germany, Switzerland, Czech Republic and England. In Asia, Africa, America and Australia only little-value truffle varieties are to be found. It is important to remember that the aroma of the Tubers changes according to the fruiting body maturation stage. The most sought-after varieties grow only in Italy, France, Spain and in the North of the former Jugoslavia.
It is to highlight, moreover, that the rare white truffle has been found so far only in the central-northern part of Italy and in Istria. The typical areas of production are in southern Piedmont, and specifically on the renowned Torino, Langhe and Monferrato hills. The town of Alba boasts the oldest truffle market which determines the “official” price because of the quality of truffles sold.
How to taste truffles